The Vinh Moc Tunnels
For the past 30 years, Ms. Thach has been giving tours of the underground tunnels of Vinh Moc near Hue, Vietnam. “In early 1992, I started taking visitors to the tunnels, and all you could see were the craters from the bombs from the American War,” she remembered as we drove out to see the underground village during a recent trip to Vietnam.
From 1965 to 1972, local people in the Quang Tri Province had to seek shelter from the American bombing to survive. There was nowhere else to escape the war but to move their people underground.
It took months to dig the tunnel system, and people had to dig by hand with very few tools. But the people of Son Trung and Son Ha communes of Linh Vinh County built a 2000-meter (6,651-foot) tunnel system that would house 300 people during what Americans call the Vietnam War. This underground village is known as the Vinh Moc Tunnels.
Today, the craters from the bombings have been replaced with small villages, rice fields, and shrimp farms, and some areas have been reforested. However, the local Vietnamese people still share the memories and history of this region as a testament and reminder of the bravery, perseverance, and survival of its people during the war in Vietnam.
A Very Brief History Of The Vietnam War
The Vietnam War (known as the American War to the Vietnamese) was a long, costly, and divisive conflict that pitted the communist government of North Vietnam against South Vietnam and its principal ally, the United States. The conflict was further intensified by the Cold War between the U.S. and the Soviet Union.
American involvement in the War began in 1964 at the Gulf of Tonkin and continued until the withdrawal of troops in 1973. The Vietnam War was devastating, and over 3,000,000 lives were lost (including 58,000 Americans). Half of the dead were Vietnamese civilians.
In 1975, Vietnam became a unified communist country upon the defeat of South Vietnam.
The Development of the Vinh Moc Tunnels
The Vinh Moc Tunnels are located north of the Ben Hai River (the DMZ), the dividing line during the war between North and South Vietnam. The tunnels were built to shelter the people of Vinh Linh County in the Quang Tri Province from the severe bombardments by the U.S. and South Vietnamese forces.
The tunnels were built between 1965 and 1966 and were used until early 1972. During those years, the U.S. dropped 9,000 tons of bombs over the Vinh Moc tunnel area. The Vietnamese people went underground for seven years to survive.
The project commander was Le Xuan Vy (an engineer), who had just finished primary school. (His first son was born in the tunnels). Today, he is a former Lieutenant Colonel, age 85, living in Dong Ha.
Three Floors Dug Out By Hand
Workers used tools like hoes and shovels to remove more than 6,000 cubic meters of soil. The most modern tool they had available was a compass.
The land where the Vinh Moc tunnels were dug was made of clay-like red basaltic soil. The soil density made it reasonably easy to dig, and air caused the soil to harden as they went along. The tunnels are built on a hill overlooking the Gulf of Tonkin, with seven exits to the sea.
There are more than 60 tunnels and three floors.
FIRST FLOOR: This floor is 12-15 meters ( 39-45 feet) deep from the ground and was used as a temporary shelter during the fighting.
SECOND FLOOR: This floor was 18 meters (60 feet) deep and contained the people's living spaces and the military command center.
THIRD FLOOR: The lowest floor goes down 22 meters (72 feet) deep and was used as a logistics warehouse to hide food and weapons.
There are family apartments about every 4 meters (13 feet). The rooms measure .8m wide (2.5 feet) x 1.8m (6 feet) deep and accommodate four people.
Rooms & Areas of the Vinh Moc Tunnel System
Living underground required the necessities to survive.
HALL: A hall area could hold 30-50 people.
APARTMENTS: Could hold 2-4 people
A MEDICAL CLINIC: To help the locals and wounded.
A MATERNITY ROOM: For birthing children.
SURGERY STATION: For medical care.
A HOANG CAM KITCHEN: Used to cook meals with exceptional ventilation.
RICE WAREHOUSE: To store food
TELEPHONE STATION: For communication.
BATHROOM: A hole was dug out using baskets for waste and coal for odor.
Ventilation Wells For Air Circulation
One of the first things you notice when you enter the tunnels is the cool air. Three ventilation wells were dug above the tunnels for air circulation. The seven exits to the sea also provided the onshore winds from the beach to keep the air circulating in the tunnels.
Life In The Vinh Moc Tunnels
The Vinh Moc Tunnels were home to about 60 families, and around 300 lived permanently in the tunnels. An astonishing 17 children were born in the underground village.
The most prolonged continuous stay underground was 18 months.
The tunnels were quite dark, and there were moments of complete darkness. At times, parents had to feed their children by hand and touch. The winters were wet, and the summers were hot and humid. People suffered from skin, bone, and eye diseases.
Lighting materials such as oil and grease were used for medical, newborn care, necessary meetings, and more.
Lack of food and necessities was always an issue in the tunnels.
The local people’s endurance, wisdom, and bravery in living underground are incomprehensible to most of us.
These horrific years in Vietnam and the creativity to build a “village” underground show the perseverance of the human spirit to survive.
Photos From The Local Archives - Vinh Moc Tunnels
Here are a few photos from the Vinh Moc Tunnels region archives. (Courtesy of Vietnam Museum).
Vinh Moc Tunnels Open To The Public In 1995
The Vinh Moc tunnels opened to tourism in 1995 as a museum. Over time, it has become a powerful reminder of the horror of war.
How To Get To The Vinh Moc Tunnels
First, you need to get to Hue, Vietnam. We used Hue as a home base while exploring the DMZ area and Vinh Moc Tunnels. Hue is a beautiful city with much history to explore.
The Vinh Moc Tunnels are a 2-3 hour one-way drive from Hue. We hired a regional driver and tour guide who knew how to navigate the area. Tours can be found at Viator.com, GetYourGuide.com, or TripAdvisor.com.
After The War & Unexploded Ordinances
Vietnam remains one of the world's most contaminated countries regarding unexploded ordinances (UXO). It is estimated that 7.5 million tons of bombs were dropped in Vietnam by the United States and its allies during the war.
Nearly 40,000 people have been killed in Vietnam by landmines or unexploded ordnances since the end of the war in 1975. Vietnamese officials estimate 35 million landmines and 300,000 tons of unexploded ordnances remain buried in the countryside in Vietnam today.
Our local guide, Ms. Thach, has guided veterans from all sides of the war back to the DMZ area. When asked what it's like for the veterans to return to the fighting grounds, she responded, "Very emotional."
Thanks for visiting my blog, and all my best to you.
Marla